How to Sharpen a Sword Like a Lord – CRATEX Abrasives

Sword is used to be a weapon of close combat. Today sword has a ceremonial purpose, symbolic meaning and decoration usage in the modern armies. However, in 21^st century the swords are mostly used by athletes in fencing matches and practice.

It consists of tapered single-sided or double-sided blades, hitched to the holder and protect by a metal cover. The blade can be flat or curved. The swords wary by weight, shape, epochs when they are made and the special purpose which they are made.

By purpose, they can be divided into combat, sports, decorative, ritual, dance (as a requisite) and others.

Of course, the essence and symbol of the sword are to be sharp, regardless of the time in which it is used.

Follow these instructions on how to sharpen sword with a different tool.

Tool #1 Bench Grinder Sword Sharpening

A bench grinder is a suitable tool for everyone who does a large quantity of sword repair. A bench grinder contains a grinding wheel that is reel at a very high speed. It can be used to take off the metal as well as to sharpen blades of all types. This tool is useful for a significant number of sword sharpeners. Sharpening of the sword blade is often cheaper than buying a new blade. Following tips will help you how to sharpen a sword like a professional.

Don’t Use the Vise

Why? Because the vise fixed the blade in the one position as it is facing down to a sharp edge. This doesn't work because the sharpening a blade is not a linear (straight line) process. So, to get an appropriate edge, you should move the blade consistently with a grinding wheel.

Right Angle

Avoid setting the blade flat on the grinding wheel. If you want to have a sharp blade edge, you should curve forward to the grinding wheel. The 45° is the best angle for sharpening a blade.

Casual Movement

A lot of sword blades has a deflection. That is why you must always keep track of the natural curve of the blade. While you're sharpening the blade, the grinding wheel instantly drags the blade into it by that following line. Don't be aggressive with a grinding wheel. You should never be at one position when you are holding the blade on the grinding wheel. Since the wheel moves the blade, you should move too. Don't try to decrease friction of the blade and the wheel, but keep it in control. Maneuver with the blade up the grinding wheel softly and gently. This will enable the blade to get sharpened equally.

Allow Grinder Wheel Works for You

Don’t apply a lot of strength onto the blade during it is grinding. That can produce the blade break off and to lose control over the blade. The wheel is rotating very quick and doesn't need your assistant to sharpen your blade. Just put the blade on the grinding wheel at a right angle and set it to work along the curved line of the blade. At the end of the process, you get a sharpen sword like a brand new.

Order the best grinding wheel for bench grinder from a CRATEX web store

Tool #2 How to Use a Whetstone for Sharpening

Choose your Whetstone

You should choose a whetstone that is ranging from 700 to 1300 grit to get a well sharpen blade. Bigger grit, the less possibility to you damage your blade while you sharpened. It is crucial if you are at the fresh start. If a sword is in bad condition or easily seen scraps on the surface, you should use whetstone down to 700 grit.

Keep the Angle

Use a 30° angle and move the blade across the stone repeating the action 10-15 times. Do it forth and back, avoid circular movements.

Double-Check the Blade

Control the blade, again and again, to make sure you haven't skipped any spot. You complete your work and have a sharp blade like a razor.

Sharpening a Sword with a File

Working Area Preparation

You need working area with a plenty of free space, so you could naturally move the sword safely.

The Position of the Sword

Put the sword on the work surface or the table, and using plywood support the sword into the place and secure it.

Set the Angle

Set the 30° angle, and then you should start sharping the edge of the blade. Drag a file about 10 times on each side of the blade.

Final Action

Hold the file and slowly twist the blade over up until you create a rough edge on both sides.

Sandpaper Sword Sharpening

Pick the Right Sandpaper

The best to use is 500 grit. It will mix in the freshly sharpened edge to the rest of the sword and produce a high-quality finish.

Begin and Finish the Process

Rip off a 3 inch by 3-inch bit of the sandpaper and start a final phase by following these steps.

• Pour a bit of water over the sword..
• Move the sandpaper down on one edge of the blade, by finger, using at a 30° angle.
• In this stage, the blade will be very sharp, so be calm not to slop your finger over the blade. You will cut yourself.

Sharpening a Sword with a Knife Sharpener

This is the quickest way of sharpening a sword.

• This tool doesn’t produce a nice edge similar to another tools, but at least you’ll not ruin the expensive sword.
• Accusharp is the best because the sword can fit in it and also has a great price.
• After you finish, use the sandpaper to make it like a super shine.

This was a guide on how to sharpen a sword, follow the lines below to find out how to sharpen a katana.

Katana

What is katana? It is “soul of the samurai” a Japanese two-handed sword which was used by members of the Japanese warrior class called samurai. It usually wore in a pair with a similarly short sword named the "wakizashi." In pairs, these 2 swords are called the "daisho," and they have represented the social status and honor of the samurai. The long sword was used for combat, and short usually for the execution of ritual suicide "sepukku" due to defeat and lost the honor of the samurai.

Katana consists of a squared or circular guard, long trip to place two hands and single-edged curved blade.

How to Sharpen a Katana with a Stone

Water Stones from Japan

Japanese water stones are natural or artificial. Natural stones are much expensive, but artificial stones can be used for polishing. Artificial stones operate with a grader abrasive suspended in clay or ceramic item. Natural stones use water for lubricant.

Sinking a Stone

Japanese water stones must be soaked in a water to work correctly. Stones need from 10 to 25 minutes to becomes saturated depending upon the stone. Some stones should be stored in water while others must be stored dry. You have a few options to sink a stone:

• You can save stones dry,  
• sink stone for 25 minutes,
• or drop off stone into the water. 

Don’t forget to add a quarter cup of sodium bicarbonate into the water. Why? Because baking soda will change pH of the water and protect your sword from rusting during you’re sharpening. Some stones shouldn't be soaked but just drenched with the water before using. In case, they were soaked, the stones will make things worse.

Stone Shaping

Japanese Water Stones permanently waste during use. This is natural and helps to control an aggressive cutting area. Some stones waste very fast while others are stronger. Sharpening stones should be a little curved outward and have round corners.

After this, the stones will become concave during use so it should be reformed after or before using. Make sure the edges are rounded or beveled because that protects the stone from fracturing and supports you from grinding a groove in the blade.

Set the Working Area

Use the working base that fits over a wooden basin like a Japanese. You should have a firm platform that stands up to water. Use a special clamp that held down with your foot.

The Blade Straightening

You should have straightened the blade before you sharpen it. Because, when you begin sharpening, the geometry will be lost. The easiest way, but hard to perform is merely folding over your knee after looking down its length. You should use the slotted wood sword straightening tools because it helps you to isolate the curve simpler. Do it slowly and gently.

Handling the Grip

Take apart a sword and sharpen the bare blade. Take off the "habaki" (shaped metal that keeps the sword from falling). A part of the used towel about 10x10 inches shrouded around the blade ensures a nice grip. It should be tight, so it doesn't slide.

Start working the “monuchi” (maximum force area, approximately 6 inches from tip of point section toward the base of the blade) with the right hand hold the sword and the left hand to balance the weight of the sword and stable the “kissaki” (point section).

Be cautious of sliding your left hand of the blade, or you could cut off your fingers. Use two parts of a towel to grip the sword with your hands when manipulating on the other area of the blade. This operation prevents cutting yourself.

Blade Sharpening

You should pass the blade across the stone using a medium strength stroke, to get a smooth polishing. Move the blade forwarding and backward to do the job. Do it slowly and check the blade frequently. Double-check that you have run a stone along the whole surface area while you supervised the geometry of a surface.

A Sample of the Scratch

The first stone must be used up till the scratch sample comes to the edge. The only time when you don’t work this is when you must take off the scratches or when the edge has been flattened. The geometry should be based on the roughest stone, and the next stone should refine your surface area.

Edge of the Blade

The typical mistake is paying too much attention to the edge. You must pay attention to the surface of the blade. Removed the surfaces to expose the edge.

The first stone is crucial. The surfaces should be performed as far as the scratch sample come to reaches the edge while managing the wanted geometry of the surface.

You should carry on working with the first stone till the scratch sample ranges the edge. You may see a tiny polished surface, that reflects the light, so look very precisely. If your edge is chipped or flattened, proceed forward.

Powerful Tips for Katana Sharpening

80 Strokes

When you set the form with the roughest stone, apply 80 strokes for two sides of the single stone blade to polish the surface. Take a long stroke that covers about 10 inches of the blade. The geometry comes out more consistently this way.

That means that whole “monuchi” (maximum force area, approximately 6-inches from tip of point section toward a base of the blade) can be covered in one stroke. The blade is spinning very lightly to cover the whole surface from “hasaki” (cutting edge) to “shinogi” (longitude ridgeline).

The “Shinogi” Rounding

It is important to not round over "shinogi" (longitude ridgeline). This is the line that moves down the length of the blade determining the cutting surface. The blade must work straight up to "shinogi" line but is very easy to spin blade overmuch and damage the blade geometry.

The blade has a habit to overturn and round the "shinogi" because of his curvature. You should hear when the stone is working "hasaki" or "shinogi." The volume of the scraping changes lightly until you reach the edge. Be cautious!

Lubrication of the Stone

Density is created on the top of the stone if it cracks down. This paste works as a lubricant and as abrasive. The stone needs to be rewetted from time to time. Water with dissolved baking soda is good to keep the stone wet. Don’t wash the paste of the stone.

You should use your hand to soak the stone and provide the blade clean. Use a small old rag but be cautious not to leave the thread or the other parts of ruins on stone or the blade.

Sword Sharpening Kit

If you want to be like a true professional, you must have the suitable equipment. Sword sharpening kit will help you. It is a box made from wood or other material that contains everything you need for sharpening, polishing or shaping the swords.

One most commonly sword sharpening kit includes two wet stones, one fine grit for final polishing, one coarse grit for sharpening, water bucket, and sanding paper.

Best sword sharpening kit for polishing the swords is Mini Block Kit No. 128B

Best Sharpening Stones on the Market