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The Ultimate Guide to Cutting Tool Sharpening

What makes a tool sharp are its two sides that are coming together under an angle that forms an edge necessary for cutting. The level of sharpness is measured by how easily a tool will cut something without severely damaging the edge.

It doesn't matter if you are sharpening a knife, an axe, a chisel or plane bits, the techniques are pretty much the same. The sharpness will primarily depend on two factors: the bevel angle, or angle at which a tool is sharpened, and the fineness of the grind, or how well the bevels are polished. A tool with much less edge angle will be sharper, and so will a tool sharpened with finer-grit abrasives.

In this article we'll present some sharpening basics, talk about the difference between sharpening and honing (yup, there is one), present various step-by-step guides to sharpening different cutting tools, and present you various CRATEX abrasives that are ideal sharpening tools. Just one of those tools is our CRATEX large sharpening wheel.

Ultimate Guide to Cutting Tool Sharpening
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CHAPTER 1

CHAPTER 1

Honing vs Sharpening

CHAPTER 2

CHAPTER 2

How to Hone a Knife

CHAPTER 3

CHAPTER 3

How to Sharpen a Knife

CHAPTER 4

CHAPTER 4

How to Sharpen Pocket Knife

CHAPTER 5

CHAPTER 5

How to Sharpen Scissors in a Few Steps

Chapter 6

CHAPTER 6

How to Sharpen an Axe Step by Step

Honing vs Sharpening

CHAPTER 1

Honing-vs-Sharpening-Sharpening-101

There are a lot of people out there who are not really sure what the difference between honing and sharpening is or might think they are the same thing. You just might be one of them. There is a short and a long explanation to this matter, so we'll do our best to provide both.

Short explanation: Sharpening is removing material from the workpiece to create a sharp edge, while honing is just straightening out the edge of a blade that is already sharp. You can say that sharpening is grinding, while honing is truing.

Long explanation:

Sharpening

Sharpening is the process of creating a sharp edge on a tool designed for cutting. It is done by grinding or removing the material with an abrasive substance of higher hardness (according to the Mohs scale than the material that is being sharpened.

The most traditional materials for sharpening are sandstones and granite, but most commonly used today are flat sharpening stones and various grinding wheels. Diamond is a very hard abrasive, but also very expensive one, while synthetic abrasives and natural Japanese waterstones are cheaper, but also less hard.

Honing

On the other hand, honing is the process of creating a precision surface on a metal workpiece by using an abrasive stone called honing stone. Honing stone is similar to a grinding wheel , but is more soft and friable, so it wears in and conforms to the shape of the workpiece.

Unlike sharpening, honing is just the process of preparing or maintaining an already sharp edge. Preparing the surface involves removing burrs or wire edges after you perform sharpening and maintaining the blade edge by polishing out small imperfections or marks caused by regular use. Honing should be done on regular basis, as it will keep the microscopic edge straight and make the need for sharpening less frequent.

Burr and Wire Edge

There are two phenomena that you should know about that are directly related to the process of sharpening. Namely, the sharpening process causes two things to occur: a burr and a wire edge. Many are not aware of the difference, but it does exist, and we'll try to explain what that is exactly.

Raising a burr is an essential part of the sharpening process. For all those who don't know, a burr is a small metal fold or piece that forms at the tip of the cutting edge, on the opposite side of the grind. Raising a burr is important because it is a signal that you've ground the edge thin enough and that you should proceed and start sharpening on the other side of the bevel.

If the burr doesn't form during the sharpening process, it means that you haven't sharpen the blade fully, so it's not as sharp as it could be. Forming the burr can be particularly difficult in case you are using coarser stones to sharpen the blade.

Namely, if you use too much pressure on a coarser stone, you may either create a much larger burr than necessary or not create one at all. The higher the pressure, the less the possibility to keep a consistent angle when sharpening which will affect the ability to raise a burr. This is why using a light pressure is key for chasing the burr. The process might take longer, but the results will be perfect.

Wire edge also falls out of the geometry of the edge. It is a continuous round wire of metal that is formed on the blade by the sharpening process. When you are back-stroking the blade or sharpening it in the spine-to-edge direction like you would by using a belt sander, you'll crate a metal buildup on the blade, resulting in a rolled round edge. Note that if you use wetstones and go in both directions as you sharpen, the wire edge won't appear.

A wire edge can begin its life as a larger burr that gets polished down instead of being ground away. It can also occur on thin blades when the edge flexes away under the pressure of the grinding tool.

Wire edge may look sharp, but it's not – it is fragile and prone to chipping. It takes time and patience to go from a burr to a wire edge and then to a clean, sharp blade. This is why you'll use progressively finer abrasives until the final burr or the wire edge can be polished off with a high-grit stone.

Sharpening Stones

Whetstones or wetstones (nothing to do with being wet, but word "whet" which means "to sharpen a blade") can be natural (typically formed of quartz) or artificial, that usually come in the form of some bonded abrasive made of a ceramic, usually silicon carbide or aluminum-oxide. As you might imagine, artificial stones provide faster cutting action and are more efficient than the natural stones. They are often found as double-sided blocks that have coarser grit on the one side and finer grit on the other.

Other common forms are bench blocks, that are intended for installation on a bench, and pocket stones, that are smaller and portable (thus the name). Although using pocket stones might make it difficult to maintain a consistent angle and pressure when drawing along longer blades, they still can form a good edge and are excellent asset for "field work" honing.

Steel plates are available in various grits and sizes and are sometimes mounted on a resin or plastic base and coated with diamond grit (better known as diamond stones). Coarser grits are used for coarser grinding or removing larger amounts of metal more rapidly, for example, when forming an edge or restoring a damaged edge. On the other hand, finer grits are used to remove scratches created by coarser grits and to refine the edge.

Sharpening Angles

The angles on each side of the blade need to create an edge that is sharp enough to cut through a certain material. The rule is simple: the smaller the angle, the sharper the cutting tool. Greater angle means more metal to be cut, which provides more durability in the field and a longer lasting sharpness.

For example, you would consider a knife very sharp in case it is sharpen at 10 degrees per side (knife's edge includes a 20-degree angle). The sharpest cutting tools, such as razors, fillet knives and paring knives are sharpened at an angle between 12 and 18 degrees, while most kitchen knives (carving and boning knives, chef's knife, etc.) are sharpened at 15-25-degree angle (Japanese knives go between 14 and 16 degrees).

Pocket, survival and hunting knives or (sporting knives)are usually sharpened at 25-30-degree angle. Extremely durable edges of about 30-40 degrees can be seen on a machete, ax, chisel or a draw knife.

In case you are not dealing with a straight edge instruments, sharpening angles and tools might be different. For example, drill bits are sharpened at 60-degree angle from vertical (120 degrees total), typically on a grinding wheel.

How to Hone a Knife

CHAPTER 2

How-to-Hone-a-Knife-CRATEX-Abrasives

The knife blade consists of many microscopic teeth that become bent and knocked out of alignment with ordinary use. Every time you use a knife, the bits of the edge will become curled over, so the knife won't cut efficiently any more.

To solve this problem and push the edge back into alignment (straighten it), you'll perform knife honing. Honing will make the blade true again and bring back its proper cutting abilities.

Since this correction doesn't include material removal, honing won't sharpen the knife, but the knife will seem sharper as the blade will be in proper position. This will reduce friction and make your blade more efficient.

Honing should be performed often, some recommend a couple of times a week, and some even before each use, but that depends on the type of knife and application. For example, a kitchen knife is usually honed before or after each use, but can even be honed during heavy use, such as by butchers. In any case, you'll be the one to detect the exact time you knife needs honing as you'll be able to detect the decline in its performance.

 

Honing Steel: A Honing Tool

Just about any abrasive can be used to make a honing stone, but the most commonly used abrasives are silicon carbide, diamond, corundum and boron nitride. Among these abrasives, most commonly encountered in honing stones are silicon carbide and corundum, but the choice will depend on the type of the workpiece. For example, extremely hard materials will require superabrasives. Sometimes it can get confusing, as people often say "honing steel" when they refer to ceramic rods.

A standard honing steel looks like a rod of steel sitting on top of a handle, however, the rods can be made of steel, ceramic or diamond-coated steel and can be round, oval or flat and up to a foot long.

The steel and ceramic honing tools can have ridges along the length, and these ridges are responsible for guiding the blade back into alignment as you draw the knife over. The ridges may wear out over time. Even when they do, the honing steel will still serve its purpose.

The surface of diamond steels is smooth and embedded with diamond particles. These particles will shave off a thin layer of the blade, so they are not suitable for daily honing. What they can do is significantly extend the working life of the knife before sharpening is needed again.



Tip:When making a purchase, look for heavy models that are at least 9 inches long, as these will provide more control.

The steels have been traditionally more common in the West, particularly in situations where knives are heavily used, such as butchering. It eventually steered the manufacturers to produce blades that have lower levels of hardness and lower brittleness. On the other hand, harder knives are preferred in East Asia where waterstones are preferred as honing tools.

 

Easy 5-Step Honing Guide

Although honing a knife is really easy and should be a mellow task, a lot of people are doing it wrong by winging the knife around the honing steel like throwing around Nunchucks.

They probably think the harder they press the blade onto the honing steel or the faster their moves, the better the results will be, which is wrong.

By doing this they will probably cause damage to the knife. Honing is all about control and getting the right angle.

To help you hone your knives like a Zen master knife-honing pro, CRATEX came up with an easy 5-step honing guide.

Step 1: Grab a Rag

The rag is not necessary but is recommendable as it provides more stability and prevents you from damaging the surface. You'll take a wet rag and place it on the counter. Then you'll place the tip of the honing steel on the rag, hold it straight up and down with one hand and anchor it.

Step 2: Start at the Heel

Hold the knife with the other hand at about 15-20-degree angle. Many might be worried about how much a 20-degree angle is, but don't over think it. First of all, we said "about". You know how much 90-degrees is, now reduce that by half and then reduce that by half. And then just a bit more. It should look like you are about to slice a really really thin slice of your honing steel.

A neat trick is to take a matchbook and press the flat side against the steel and then lay the knife against the matchbook. That's the angle that you are looking for!

Step 3: Draw the Knife Down

Now, just let the knife fall down the steel from the heel to the tip of the blade in an arching motion. It should all be one smooth, easy movement. Make sure you use the full length of the steel and pull across the entire length of the knife with a constant angle.

While you are drawing, you are not pushing but applying a light pressure. More like letting the gravity do its work. You should start with a bit more pressure in the beginning and lighten it more and more until the very last stroke.

A net trick for determining the pressure is to take a baking scale, grab the knife by the handle, press the blade on top of the scale and press down until you hit 4 to 6 pounds a pressure. This would be a good zone for honing your knife on a regular basis.

Step 4: Repeat on the Other Side

After you are done with one side of the knife, repeat on the other. Make sure you do equal number of passes on each side, usually about 5-10 times per side depending on how dull you knife is.

Step 5: Wipe the Residue Off

After you are done, carefully wipe the blade off to remove any residue that might have remained.

 

Bonus: Advanced Knife Honing with Honing Steel

The advanced method doesn't require you to hold the tip of the honing steel down on the counter, but you'll hold it out horizontally with your non-knife hand. This method is much faster but doesn't provide much control, so it's not suitable for honing beginners.

You'll also start by placing the heel of the blade on the steel base. Next, you'll draw the knife all the way heel to tip and down the steel while maintaining 15-20-degree angle.

You can go 5 times on one side and 5 on the other and then gradually do fewer and fewer strokes on each side until you're down to one stoke on each side.

How to Sharpen a Knife

CHAPTER 3

How to Sharpen a Knife

Sharpening is the process of grinding or shaving off the blade to produce a new, sharp edge. After you create a sharp edge, you'll maintain and prolong its sharpness. However, due to the repeated use and honing, you'll notice that the knife holds its sharpness only for a little while or is not in full alignment, because the blade starts to get crushed or has chips in it.

You'll eventually lose the edge and you'll need to put a new edge on or re-sharpen your knife. Sharpening is usually performed every 6-12 months, but it can be done more frequently depending on how much the knife is used and the application.

The best way to test if the knife is sharp is to take a piece of paper and try to slice it while holding it up in the air. Or trying to slice through a rolled-up magazine page would also do the trick.

A dull knife is not only less attractive as a finished product but is also quite dangerous. Since it doesn’t provide clean cuts, you'll tend to apply more pressure than necessary when cutting, which can result in an accident.

In case you are not that crafty or don't have the tools, bringing your knife to a professional knife sharpener could be a good idea. This option is good for those who sharpen their blades only a couple of times a year, as the services can get rather costly in case you need your blades re-sharpened dozen times per year.

There's also a downside to using services of professional sharpeners. Namely, most of them use grinding stones that will remove much more material than necessary, which will reduce its lifespan (especially not suitable for chef knives). Besides, bringing it to a sharpener will prevent you from building a fine, strong bond with your blade, which is the whole point of the sharpening ritual – treating the knife with respect, so that it behaves better for its owner.

Namely, for most bladesmiths and knifemakers  sharpening a knife is more than creating a sharp edge on a blade. It's almost a ritualistic practice that puts one in touch with both the knife and the man as tool maker and tool user.

So, feel like you want to master the art of sharpening already? That's the whole purpose of this chapter – to provide necessary information on knife sharpening and a simple know-how.

 

Knife Sharpening Tools

There are dozens of different ways to sharpen a knife. It is typically by grinding it against hard surface, such as sharpening stone, or a soft surface that is embedded with hard particles, such as sandpaper.

There are dozens of different sharpening stones, such as Japanese waterstones (whetstones), diamond embedded stones and stones with different grit grades. Most basic ones have two sides – a rough and a fine grit. The grit sizes range from 100 to 10,000 or more grits. For those who don't know, the lower the number the coarser the grit, so you'll take more material with it. Of course, the higher the grit, the sharper the blade you'll create, but you just need far more strokes to get you there.

Whetstones can be single, double-sided or triple-sided stones with varying degrees of grit. When sharpening a knife with a whetstone, make sure you use progressively finer grits. It needs to be said that this is the most labor-intensive method, but when performed properly will yield the best results.

Diamond is the hardest naturally occurring substance and can therefore be used to sharpen almost any material (it can even be used to flatten waterstones), while ceramic sharpening rods are less abrasive, require more work, but deliver a much finer edge.

Choosing a stone is a matter of personal preference and a matter of function. If just starting, you'll need to try out a few stones to find the one that gives you the results that you are satisfied with. Just make sure you don't use cheap stones in case you are sharpening high-quality knives, but also keep in mind that there's no need to get fancy stones if you are just getting started with sharpening your pocket knife.

There are also various electric sharpeners suitable for both kitchen knives and pocket or tactical knives. The main obvious benefit of these electric sharpeners is speed (only takes a couple of minutes), but the main disadvantage is the fixed sharpening angle which won't be suitable for some specialized knives.

 

Blade Sharpening - Getting the Right Angle

The sharpness of the blade will depend on the edge angle or angle at which you hold the knife and the sharpening stone – the smaller the angle you hold it at, the sharper the knife.

Typical angles are about 20 degrees, but very sharp knives can be as little as 10 degrees. On the other hand, knives that require a tough edge may be sharpened at 25 degrees.

What does "tough edge" mean? Well, the edge and the sharpness of the knife primarily depend on the application. Namely, tougher edges are used for operations such as chopping, while thinner edges are used for more precise cuts with little pressure, like surgical ones.

For example, surgical scalpels are extremely sharp, but also so fragile that people throw them away after they become dull rather than sharpening them. Straight razors are very sharp with a small angle, and kitchen knives are less sharp and used for slicing rather than pressing.

That's why kitchen knives need to be honed on a daily basis to maintain the sharp edge. On the other hand, axes used for chopping wood are less sharp, so you'll need to regrind them daily rather than hone them.

When it comes to kitchen knives, Western-style knives are usually made of softer steel and are sharpened at 20-22 degrees. East Asian kitchen knives are usually made of harder steel and therefore, sharpened at an edge angle of 15-18 degrees.

 

Knife Sharpening Guide

Different people prefer and use different sharpening methods, but a sharpening stone provides the best edge and removes the least of material. That's why we've decided to provide an easy X step guide to sharpening knives with a whetstone.

First thing you'll need to do is get yourself a set of sharpening whetstones. There are different grits of sharpening stones and it is recommended to have at least two in your set. One should be a medium grit of about 800 and the second one a fine grit of at least 2,000.

Ultra-fine grit stones of 8,000 of more leave a mirror-like finish, which is not necessary for all professions and purposes. If you budget only allows one stone, then perhaps a stone of 1,000 to 1,200 grits would be a way to go. The stones with two sides and a coarser and finer git are also available, but they do have a poorer quality.

In any case, you will need a coarser stone called a "fixer". You'll use it to rub it on the surface of the stone before sharpening. You'll do this to create a flat surface on your stone and build up some sediment on the surface of the stone.



Tip:When buying a waterstone, always look for a large one that is at least 2 1/2" inches wide, 8" long and 1" thick.

 



For help you master knife sharpening, CRATEX came up with this easy 7-step guide to sharpening your knife.

Step 1: Get the Stones Nice and Moist

Before you begin sharpening your knife with whetstones, you'll need to submerge them in water for at least 45 minutes. If they are not properly soaked, they may become dry during the sharpening which may cause dents and scratches to your blade. You'll need to soak both sharpening stones and the fixer stone.

Step 2: Rub the First Stone with the Fixer

Take the coarser stone out of the water and place it on the counter in front of you. Now take your fixer and rub it for a while against the surface of your stone to make sure you are starting with a nice flat surface.

Return the fixer in the water container after you are done.

Step 3: Prepare for the First Stroke

Place the heel of the knife on the far edge of the stone and hold the knife at a 15-20-degree angle. You should hold the knife handle with one hand, spread the fingers of your other hand and place them on top of the blade to apply even pressure.

The trick for determining the proper angle with the matchbook applies not just to honing, but to sharpening with a stone as well. Grab a matchbook, place it on the sharpening stone backside down and lay the blade on top of it. That's about 15 degrees!

Step 4: Draw the First Stroke

After you find the angle in the proper starting position, start slowly dragging the knife over the stone in an arching motion. Never grind the blade forward but go with the direction of the blade. Apply a very gentle, firm and even pressure. It should look like this: heel to tip, from the front of the stone to the back. Don't forget about maintaining the 15-20-degree angle as you make the stroke.

There's also another way to do it: simply move the blade straight back and forth while puling the blade from one side to the other – or from heel to tip.

Step 5: Finish & Repeat

When you finish a stroke, your tip should end up touching the bottom of the stone. Lift the knife, reposition the blade and repeat.

You should start with 10-20 strokes on one side, and then do fewer and fewer strokes on each side until you are down to one stroke per side.

Step 6: Switch Stones

After you are done, you will check your blade for burrs. It's easy to determine whether you've raised some burrs or not – simply gently run your fingers along the blade and feel the burrs under your fingertips.

Wipe the blade off with a kitchen towel and proceed to the finer-grit stone. You'll repeat the whole process, starting with rubbing it with the stone fixture, and repeat the same strokes as you did before after that.

Step 7: Rinse the Blade

After you are done, rinse the blade under running water and you're done!

Just make sure you carefully dry your stones after each use. The best would be to wrap them up and keep them in a kitchen towel in a dry and grease-free place.

 

Note:After sharpening, the blade may feel like it's sharp, but it actually isn't and will become dull quite quickly. You'll need to remove the wire edge by using an abrasive and sharpen the blade in the opposite direction (or hone it) – with the edge leading.

How To Sharpen Pocket Knife

CHAPTER 4

How to Sharpen A Pocket Knife

 4 Ways to Sharpen a Pocket Knife

A pocket knife is a knife that has one or more blades that fold into the handle, and that can be carried in the pocket. It is also known as a jackknife or penknife. Pocket knives are multilateral tools and may be used for everything, from opening a package, to cutting off clothing tags or even as a means of self-defense.

You can find all types of pocket knives online or in a hardware store. Prices are different, depends on what you want. So, if you're planning to buy one, you need to know something about different pocket knife types, blades and most importantly – sharpening process.

Pocket Knife Types

There are 3 main variations of types:

• The peasant knife or farmer knife is an original design of a folding pocket knife with a fixed blade.

• Slip joint knife has a handle with one or more folding blades. There are so many popular patterns of slip joint knives like barlow, camper, congress.

• Multi-tool knives are variations of American camper style or the Swiss army styles. Multitool knives have more than one blade with other tools such as scissors, bottle openers, and corkscrews.

Top 10 Best Pocket Knives

Here are the some of the best-selling pocket knives that you can find in the market.

  1. SOG Aegis – made from AUS8steel, with glass-reinforced nylon Diggi grip handle, price $67.11;
  2. Benchmade 275BKSN – built from D2 steel, with G10 stable, durable handle, price $195.44;
  3. Spyderco Delica 4 – developed from VG steel, with glass-reinforced nylon handle, price $67.11;
  4. Ontario XM-2TS – created from N690Co steel, with aircraft aluminum handle, price $112.95;
  5. Case Cutlery Black Trapper – produced from surgical steel, with synthetic handle price $78.43;
  6. Kershaw Blur – invented from 440A steel, with Liner Lock reinforced handle, price $69.99;
  7. Cold Steel Recon 1 – made of AUS8A steel, with the G10 aluminum handle, price $103.86;
  8. Benchmade 581 – M390 steel quality, with the G10 wear resistance handle, price $203.98;
  9. CRKT M16 – designed from AUS4 steel, with glass-reinforced nylon handle, price $22.47;
  10. Buck/Tops CSAR-T – fabricated from ATS-34steel, with proof textured G10 handle, $130.50;

 

Main Tools to Sharpen Pocket Knife

To sharpen a pocket knife, you need two things: a sharpening stone and a lubricant.

As there are so many ways to sharpen the pocket knife, there are so many different types of grinding stone. These 3 are essential:

  • Whetstone,
  • Ceramic stones,
  • Diamond stones.      

Take a different kind of rocks and choose one that gives you the best result. Most importantly, you don't need so much money to sharpen the knife. You can find a sharpening stone at any hardware stores for about $5. Sharpening stone has two sides: fine grit and a rough grit. Typically, you should start with sharpening using the coarse gravel and finished with honing using the finer grit.

Lubricant

Every knife sharpening expert recommends using some lubricant when sharpening your knife. The lubricant can come in many forms, from oil to water. Experience says that best result for sharpening the blade has honing oil. Because it has the right consistency for sharpening. The best product that you can find in the market is Nathan's Honing oil. You can buy this item at a local hardware store or online.

The lubricant is so effective. Why?

Because, he reduces the amount of heat, and could save your blade edge. Also, stops overheating from the abrasion.

How to Sharpen a Pocket Knife with a Stone

1.Wet Your Stone

You should wet sanding stone because it is the best way of preparation for sharpening. If you are using a stone with a rough side and a fine side, start with the rougher side.

2.Set the Angle

You should hold blade angle while sharpening. The angle depends on the knife you're grinding, and it can be from about 15° to 30°.To find a bevel angle, you need some practice. You should be able to get it by the feel.

3.Sharpen Rough Side of a Blade

Set the blade at the perfect angle. Try to hold your knife at the same position. Then, start with the knife position at the end of the stone, so the blade's edge facing away from you. Pull the knife toward yourself. Now, you reach the end, glide the razor down, so you hit any curved side of your blade. Repeat 15 times. Flip edge over and repeat 15 times.

4.Sharpen Fine Side of a Blade

Do the sharpening of the fine side, as you do with a rough side. Repeat the process.

5.Clean your Wipe Blade

Use wiper or towel to wipe the blade gently.

6. Test your pocket knife for sharpness

  • Slicing the paper,
  • Shaving sharp,
  • Slice an onion,
  • Slicing the magazines and phone book paper.

If your pocket knife, can slice paper effortlessly and doesn’t catch and tear paper, then your knife is sharped and ready for work.

If you can shave your arm hair, your knife is sharped.

The skin on onion is very slippery and thin. If your knife can quickly go through into the surface of an onion, your pocket knife is sharped.

A pocket knife that can slice without strength through magazine paper or phone book, especially if it is rolled up, is very sharp.

7. Pocket Knife is Ready for Using

Just remember to sharpen a blade after every 10 days.

 

How to Sharpen a Pocket Knife Without a Stone

There are many powerful ways how to sharpen a pocketknife without a stone. We are going to show you 5 tips on how to improve your pocket knife without a stone.

Tip #1 Rock Sharpening

If you are camping near a lake or a river, and you need to sharpen your knife here is how to do it? 

A water rock can be a great sharpening tool. Just find the flattest rock that fits in your hand, and that has the smoothest surface. Then, move the blade over the flat edge of the rock, precisely the same way you would use your sharpening stone at home.

Fine slow strokes will improve your blade. Do it until you get a fine sharp blade.

Tip #2 Car Window Sharpening

Use the top of the rolled down the car window, because it has a rough surface. By sharpening a blade on this rough surface, you'll cut out the rough edges on the blade, which is stopping your knife cutting efficiently.

Tip #3 Sand Paper Sharpening

Just, put the paper on a fine surface and slowly move the blade over the rough board. What is more effective? Wetting the send paper with water will make work much efficient allowing a scarf to be removed immediately.

Tip #4 Another Knife for Sharpening

Don't sharpen blade against blade. Hold the duller of the two knives and move the edge over another knife in a circular movement.

Tip #5 Concrete Sharpening

Concrete is everywhere, that is the good thing. The bad thing is that he can damage your pocket knife. So, find concrete with an extremely flat surface. Then move the pocket knife precisely in the same way you would do with a sharpening stone.

How to Sharpen a Pocket Knife with a Household Items

You don't have a stone for sharpening anywhere near, but you need to sharpen a pocket knife? These are 5 tips that can help you.

Tip #1    Sharpening with a Coffee Mug

Every house has ceramic coffee cups. Spin the mug upside-down, find the raw side of the cup, and move the blade across mug until you get the sharpened edge. If it's working properly, you will see some small defect on the mug, which means the ceramic is removing steel and sharpening the blade.

Tip #2   Scissors Sharpening

Look for good scissors. Set the angle of the pocket knife.  Close the scissors till you get the edge you want. Move it back and run a few times, pressing it steady against the scissors. Avoid angle of 90°. The best angle is usually 70°. Lay your knife on the nail of your thumb. If it sticks, you got a sharpened edge.

Tip #3 Sharpening with a Leather Belt

Of course, you have a leather belt in your closet. The best belt for sharpening is the one without stitching. Move the knife away from the cutting edge, over the blade. Many professional bladesmiths use leather straps for sharpening the knives.

Tip #4 Nail File Sharpening (Emery Board)

This tip is suitable for women. Find the nail file. Put the nail file on the smooth surface, and move a couple of times blade across the rough board. That's all.

Tip #5 Sharpening with a Nylon Strap

If you don’t have a leather belt, a nylon strap will help you. Move the blade against the nylon strap away from the cutting edge. You just got yourself a sharper edge.

Sharpening a Pocket Knife with a File

You should use a single cut file of one of the following 3 types: mill, hand or flat. We will show you complete process of grinding a pocket knife with a file in 5 steps.

Step #1 Secured the Knife in a Vice

Put the handle of the pocket knife in a vice, so that the blade is parallel with the ground, showing away from you. Because of the shape of the knife handle, you should use a thick part of a textile before then wooden file block, to secure the handle from a breakdown. Your knife shouldn’t be able to move backward or upwards.

Step #2 Use a Lower Angle.

Holding your file angle lower as possible you can, almost horizontal. Run the file over a full length of a blade. This requires more than one stroke.

Step #3 Turn over the Blade in a File

Twist your knife over, and do it again on the other side of the blade. Make sure that you are away from the blade in the vice, so that you can find a lower angle.

Step #4 Take off the Foil

Filling like this causes a special type of burr called a foil, to form the whole edge of the blade. This can seem like a thin part of the metal string. Now pull the knife away from a vice safely.

Step #5 Testing a Pocket Knife

Simply test it, by checking how blade cuts through paper.

How to Sharpen Scissors in a Few Steps

CHAPTER 5

How to Sharpen Scissors

During time and with constant use, all scissors will ultimately dull and lose the sharp edges they once had when you first purchased them.

If you are having problems cutting with blunt scissors, you might consider going out and getting another pair, since they’re relatively inexpensive.

Still, there are several ways you can sharpen the scissors at home that only require a few tools and a little bit of knowledge.

Stone Sharpening

Sharpening scissors on the stone isn’t the same like when you sharpen the knives. Scissors are different since they have two blades.

Step #1

Buy sharpening stones at the hardware store. It has 2 sides: a rougher side and a fine side. Lay a towel underneath the sharpening stone and lubricate it using a honing oil or either water. Take off the bolt that holding the scissors blades together.

Step #2

Place the inner side of the one blade on the stone facing down. Sharp angle among the cutting and the inner edge.

The place where the two edges face is the area needs to be sharp to cut successfully. Hold the handle of the blade, and smoothly drag the blade over the stone, moving the blade's edge against the stone.

Step #3

Keep the blade’s handle and lean the blade ahead yourself while the cutting-edge lay on the stone. Position the blade horizontal, slowly drag it over a stone in your direction, holding that chamfered edge flat versus stone.

Fit the angle and keep on moving the blade progressively. Rerun this process until the blade is sharpened.

Test the scissors by cutting material such as paper or fabric.

How to Sharpen Scissors with a Dremel

Sharpening scissors with a Dremel is one of the best methods to have a sharp blade quickly. You need a rotary tool and attachments that fit Dremel.

Step #1

Separate scissors by disconnecting a screw found in the middle of scissors. Put one of the blades into the vice and turn outside. One blade side should be tilted downward positioning in the sharp edge as at the same time, the other side won’t be tilted.

Step #2

Put the wheel into a rotary tool and begin. Control the device against the top of the blade at a 10° angle. Carry on rough along the scissors’ length at that angle as far as the entire edge is sharp. Remove the scissor blade from the vise and mount them.

How to Sharpen Scissors with a File

The file is an excellent substitute for sharpening stone.

Step #1

Choose a 10 inches file length. Take off the bolt that connects the blades.

Step #2

Keep the file in one hand - the scissors in the other hand and drag across the inner blade, from the base of the blade until reach the tip. Repeat it 5-10 times.

Scissors Sharpening with Aluminum Foil

You need a piece of aluminum foil for this successful scissors sharpening technique.

Step #1

Use a piece of aluminum foil - 10-15 inches long and fold it in lengthways several times to get a tick foil.

Step #2

Cut aluminum foil ribbons with the scissors until you cut the whole of the thick aluminum ribbon. Begin cutting at the scissors’ base and move it to the top to get the wanted result.

Sharpening the Scissors Using Glass Jar

The great news is that you can use any glass jar for scissors sharpening.

Step #1

Spread the shears as much as you can, and place the blades around the jar sides.

How to Sharpen an Axe Step by Step

CHAPTER 6

How to Sharpen an Axe

Abraham Lincoln said it best. Given six hours to take down a tree, he would take four hours to first properly sharpen the axe. That goes to show just how important having a sharp tool for a job really is. So, if you want to know how to sharpen an axe, the first and the most important advice we have for you is take your time, don’t rush it.

What good is doing the most important part of axe maintenance quickly, only to find yourself struggling to chop off the tiniest of branches? A bit of head-scratching later and you’re back to the sharpening table, so to speak. Again, do it slowly and with great care. An axe is your friend and companion, and it deserves careful and respectful treatment.

So, back to the question of how to sharpen an axe. We are going to take you through the story slowly, carefully explaining every step of the way, leading you by the hand to the end of the road where the sharpest of axes awaits buried in a tree, waiting for your hand to grip it tightly.

Too poetic? Perhaps, but we’re just trying to illustrate the importance of proper axe maintenance and sharpening. So, there are four crucial steps, and we’re going to explain them all. Next, we’re going to take you through the tried and proven method of axe sharpening, step by step. Hopefully, by the time you’ve finished reading this, you’ll be a couple of steps closer to never again having a blunt axe in your hand.

 

Shaping

So, to begin with, let’s explain the first step in the process. Shaping is a good way to start off the sharpening, as it remodels the edge to its original shape and size. Also, shaping is a crucial step if the axe head is severely damaged. In this situation, you have to first reach the perfect shape, and reinstate the bevel edge.

So, basically, start off with your best file and reinstate the edge. The trick is not to overheat the edge while doing this, as it can lose its properties. Cool often and make pauses while working with the file.

Grinding

The second step is grinding. This can sometimes become the first step, if the axe head is only slightly worn or damaged. You can afford to skip the shaping with a file, as there sometimes is no need for that.

You will usually use a bench grinder for this step. Basically, the component that is different is the whetstone itself. Whetstones are usually made of silicon carbide or sandstone.

Whatever the whetstone of your choice is, just make sure to keep the bevel shape. The axes whose heads are straight also have to be just a bit convex in order to do their job properly. Too straight and it can break while performing a task. The trick with grinding is, again, to work slowly, and pay close attention to the curvature of the edge.

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Honing

The final step in the way, honing, or, as many people perceive, the actual sharpening of the axe. If you’ve been wondering about how to sharpen an axe, this is the step where you actually do it in the basic sense of the word. Everything up to now has been the preparation.

So, this is where your axe becomes the perfect chopping machine, ready to tackle any tree you put in front of it. For this step, you will need different whetstones, each used one after the other, getting the edge to that final sharp glisten.

An optional final step is to use a leather strop. You should still take your time and make your axe the best it can be, so why skip anything? All right, now that you know the basic parts the process, time to get into the details. We will explain every step of the way of the process we think is the best, and we hope you will find it useful too.

 

Step 1 – The Assessment

To begin with, assess the state your axe is currently in. Sometimes, an axe needs just a quick touch-up, a quick sharpening to return it to its not-so-distant glory. Mind you, not that this quick touch-up should be done quickly. It only means it’s a process that doesn’t take as long as the full how to sharpen an axe routine.

So, inspect the head of your axe for any potential dents or even crack in the edge. This constitutes serious damage, and if this occurs, you should always begin by reshaping the bevel edge with a file. Although we always recommend this step, it can sometimes be avoided in its entirety.

If the damage is less severe, it means your axe is in pretty good shape and you don’t have to worry about not being able to sharpen it properly. Ok, so you’ve assessed the state of the axe, now let’s get on with it.

 

Step 2 – The Preparation

Now, we need to prepare the field for your axe to shine again. We’re going to be sharpening our axe mostly by hand, as not everybody has advanced tools at their disposal. You can call this the everyman’s how to sharpen an axe guide.

The first thing you need to do is place a wedge of any kind beneath the head. We prefer to use wood, but you can use anything else instead. Just try not to use anything plastic, as the heat can increase during the process, and you don’t want that smoldering smell rummaging around your nostrils.

By slightly elevating the head, you increase the stability during the process, while also making it easier for yourself to reach every angle of the blade edge. The head should be horizontal with the table, the edge protruding over it, to ease the work you’re going to be doing.

Next, clamp the handle of the axe to the workbench or worktable. You can secure it to a vise as well, but, as we’ve said, this is the everyman’s guide, and some folk don’t have that. Secure it nice and tight, as you don’t want your axe to move about while you’re tending to the edge. This is also the point at which you should start wearing gloves. Cuts sustained while sharpening an axe can be serious, and they can certainly spoil the entire experience. Why ruin the fun?

Finally, if you see a need for it, you can use a permanent marker to mark the edge. We recommend doing this if you’re a beginner, as it is easy to lose sight of where the edge of the axe should finish. This way, you will save yourself the trouble of potentially having to reshape the axe blade again after going to deeply into the head.

 

Step 3 – The Filing

Now it’s time to begin the actual process of sharpening. We know you’ve been eagerly awaiting to really get your hands into it, but we have to note this once again – the assessment and the preparation are just as vital as taking a file and starting the “actual” work. Without proper preparation, chances are you’ll end up doing a less than satisfactory job.

So, take the file, position it at an angle corresponding with the angle of the bevel edge, and start filing by moving your hand in the opposite direction to the edge. So, away from the edge, toward yourself. Adjust the angle during the process if necessary, so as to always move file perfectly along the cutting edge.

The perfect angle of an axe that will primarily be used for tasks such as chopping is between twenty and twenty-five degrees. You can angle guides to measure the angle if you’re can’t roughly determine the angle by looking at it. Not many people can actually, you need a ton of experience for that.

It is during this part of the process that potential chips in the edge will be revealed. Don’t fret, you can remove them. Small chips are normal for an axe that has seen its days in the woods, but if there are any larger ones, you may need to straighten that part of the edge. You can do this by skating the file along the edge, truing-up the cutting edge, removing the chips. Even if some smaller chips endure, you will remove them later, no need to worry.

When finished with one side of the edge, simply flip it over, secure it and tighten again, and repeat the process, removing any chips along the way. The perfect time to flip the head over is after filing about ¼” from the edge. The only trick to all of this is to count your file strokes. Try to use the same number for both sides of the axe. This way, they will be as close to identical as humanly possible during the sharpening process.

And voila, the filing is finished. As mentioned a couple of time before, if you maintain your axe properly and frequently, you can skip this step. We feel you should never skip it, just to make sure your axe is always in tip top shape.

Step 4 – The Stoning

Just kidding about the name of this step. This is the part where you grind the edge of your axe in a finer manner than with a file. As said, this is where you use the whetstones to get your axe closer to perfection. However, although we have mentioned bench grinders earlier, we are going to skip that step here and go straight to honing.

Not everybody has access to a bench grinder, and this guide should serve everybody. Don’t think that you not using a belt or a bench grinder will make your axe unworthy. Far from it. Such machines just make the entire process a bit faster, that’s all.

So, take a coarse stone, and start honing your edge. The direction you should move the whetstone in should be identical to the direction you filed in. Do it slowly, paying close attention to the angle, as it should never be too steep. Do this on side, then flip your axe over and do it again. Also, as with filing, try to count the strokes, and make sure you use the same number for each side.

Once you finish honing both sides with a coarse whetstone, repeat the process again, but using softer and smoother whetstones along the way. Medium grit will fit perfectly. Once you finish using the smoothest of whetstones at your disposal, you can stop and admire your axe. It should be glowing with sharpness, while you should be glowing with pride of making your axe breathe a new life.

Or, you can continue if you want to, and we know you want to. Shy stop when you can sharpen your axe a tad more. Yeah, we know you would continue reading. So, the final step of the final step – the stropping.

Use a good piece of strong, sturdy leather, place it on the table, and work the edge of your axe by pulling it away. This will remove any bur that may still plague the edge, while also adding that final speck of sharpness to it. The only thing to make sure while doing this is to hit every point of the cutting edge. Just a couple of strokes on both sides and you’re finished.

Lastly, if you really want to see just how sharp your axe has become, to see if our how to sharpen an axe journey has yielded results, you do have to test it. And let us stop you right away. You don’t have to go running about, trying to find a sequoia worthy of being chopped. All you need to do to test your axe is to roll up your sleeves, and treat your arms to a bit of as dry shave. An axe that is truly sharp should take the hair right off your arm, without so much as a scrape. Only then are you ready to put on your plaids and go out into the wild.

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